The 1920s Clothes

Shapes and Materials

Silhouette

Former aesthetic forms have come to be stereotyped as “feminine” and thus
less important and inferior to men. The corset, which equalled the binding of a
woman not only in a physical, but also in a sociological sense, made way to
straight flowing dresses, which hung loosely on the body. The body outline was
a very straight, curveless figure and as opposed to the pre-war period, women
now used brassieres to flatten their breasts instead of enhancing them. Skirts
fell between the knee and mid-calf , for both day and eveningwear. One exception
was a style of formal dress with a straight bodice and low-waisted flaring skirt
with an uneven, ankle-length hem. In general, the 20s were an elongation and
simplification of lines.

Vogue January 1929

Common Designs in different occasions

For the day out in town, wool suits tailored with a hip-length
straight-cut jacketand a straight pleated skirt were common,
or a scoop-neck lightweight dresses with no waistline or lowered waist
was worn. For sports, especially golf, the outfit
resembled a male ensemble with a tailored shirt or blouse and a short skirt. To
stroll on the beach, women wore loose pantaloons or a cape and for bathing, a
one-piece wool swimsuit was worn, which was the birth of the unisex swimsuit
often identically styled for men, women and children. Evening wear were flowing
dresses in sleeveless barrel shapes with emphasis of the lowered waistline by
a wide band of shirring or smocking. For home entertaining, women often chose
exotic looking pajamas or an ensemble of a harem-inspired side-opening skirt
and a lose top.

Fabrics

There was a huge variety of natural fibres (linen, cotton, wool and silk), acetate,
and rayon (artificial silk). Most daywear was medium- to lightweight, in crepes,
georgette, knits and light suitings. In the evening, dresses were made of silk
and both sheer chiffon and opaque fabrics were used, often embroidered with
pearls. The desired effect was sinuous and sensual with the soft textiles clinging
to the body and revealing a large amount of skin. Coco Chanel made the jersey
fashionable and knit fabrics became popular, as well as the first synthetic fibers.
Fur was still very desirable and those who could not afford mink or sable chose
simpler alternatives like rabbit or muskrat.


Vogue February 1924

Colors and Prints

For the day, the dominant colours were neutral greys, browns, and blues, but
pastels and more lively colors were worn as well. Nightwear was a rainbow of
colour; prints were common, usually in small checks or figures or floral patterns.


Accessories, hair and make-up
For the daytime, heads were still common, among the most famous one being the cloche hat (deriving its name from the French word for "bell"). The small hat fit over short hair and almost reached to the eyebrows. It was often decorated with a pin in the front or a ribbon.

In the evenings, women often wore turbans or head bands decorated with diamonds or feathers. Ostrich feathers in particular were also used for fans, which had its last popular days in the 20s.
Women’s hair was worn short again for the first time since the late 18th century. The pageboy hairstyle became very popular, a straight, chin-length cut. Even shorter and more radical was an imitation of the male “Eton” cut with the hair combed back straight.

Clara Bow
The make-up was heavily used at any time of the day, but the later the hour, the more dramatic it became. Emphasis lay on the black, smoky eyes and red lips painted in heart-shape.



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